Sunday, October 10, 2010

The Gandharvas & their Sarangi

Gandharvas, since time immemorial, have been recognised as the musician caste of Nepalese society. Long before television and radio came into existence, these people would travel around the villages playing music and spreading news, much in common to Europe’s wandering minstrels.




You’ve seen them on the busy streets of Thamel, playing this musical instrument that looks vaguely similar to a violin, following tourists through the crowd hoping that one of them would buy their instrument. And some of you probably have been influenced by them and at times even been irritated by their presence. But behind that simple facade is a man desperately fighting for survival, not only of his own against poverty but that of the Nepalese musical tradition against the influence of increasing western musical culture. Competing with the blaring Bob Marley on the stereo being played in the restaurants, these nomadic musicians of Nepal sing songs that belong to every heartbeat of the Nepalese. He is a Gandharva with his Sarangi.



Gandharvas, since time immemorial, have been recognised as the musician c aste of Nepalese society. Long before television and radio came into existence, these people would travel around the villages playing music and spreading news, much in common to Europe’s wandering minstrels. Intricately mingled with music, these Gandharvas would relate stories ranging from accounts of battles fought long these Gandharvas would relate stories ranging from accounts of battles fought long ago to passing on of local gossip. In a land where education was the prerogative of the favoured few, the Gandharvas had played an immense role in the preservation and propagation of Nepali folklore. Their contribution in matters of historical issues has also been significant.



King Prithvi Narayan Shah, who unified the various scattered kingdoms to form the Kingdom of Nepal, employed Gandharvas to sing the glory of the Shah Dynasty. They were used as a means of propaganda during the unification period and were sent to villages to sing in favour of a unified Nepal.



The Gandharvas learn to sing their unique songs and play the Sarangi in a traditional way – elders pass on their skills to younger generations. The Sarangi is a true Nepalese musical instrument. The name SARANGI is a combination of two words. ‘SA’ - the first note of music (parallel to DO as in DO, RE, ME ... ) and RANGI meaning colourful. So the instrument that colours up notes of music is called the Sarangi. Similar musical instrument can be found in other parts of the world. For example, the western violin. Sarinda, the Indian musical instrument probably is the closest in resemblance to the Sarangi. The method of making the Sarangi is unique to itself.



The Sarangi, a one-piece instrument having a neck and hollowed out body, is carved out from a very light wood, locally known as Khiro. The wood is cut into a length of about a foot. The body is carved into a hollow frame with two openings. The lower opening is then covered up with dried sheep-skin. The origin al strings were made out of sheep intestine. The village people allotted intestines of sheep, sacrificed during major festivals like Dasain, to the Gandharvas. The Gandharvas left the intestine in a pot for some days. Once the meat was fully rotten, it was pulled out, leaving behind the fine nerves of the intestine which were then woven to get the strings, which produced fine quality sound. However these days, readily available nylon and steel strings are more popular with Sarangi players as they do not have the time to prepare the traditional variety of strings. Wedge like keys are hammered on to the neck of the Sarangi to serve as screws for tightening the strings. Horse-tail hair was originally used for the bowstring of the Sarangi but these days nylon strings are preferred.



As a result of the wide exposure of our Nepalese society to the outside world and vice versa, over the past few decades, we have lost a lot of our traditional culture. The dominant western culture has slowly trickled into our society and hence everyday we seem to lose a little bit of our identity. For example, Harbaja, an instrument once popular among most of the old Gandharvas is not played anymore. The elders among the new generation Gandharvas recall the time ‘when fairies danced to the tune of the songs and the Harbaja played by the Gandharvas’.



The Sarangi could encounter the same fate as the Harbaja if nothing is done to preserve the tradition. Sadly, nothing is being done.



There is an organization started by a few of the Gandharvas themselves. It is here that these musicians by birth, spend their time playing the Sarangi, when they are not walking around the streets of Thamel trying to sell their Sarangis to foreigners who have been attracted to the sweet sound of the traditional Nepalese music.



Sad as it may seem, not many people, neither the tourists nor the Nepalese themselves, are aware of the plight of the Gandharvas and their Sarangi. As Nepal advances into the technological world, the Gandharvas appear to be losing the essence of their existence i.e,s their job of relating contemporary stories and news. The attractions of TV and radio appears to have made the Gandharvas more or less redundant.



Losing one’s culture doesn’t happen overnight, it takes years and years. One by one a little of what one has is lost and we don’t realize the value of what we had till it’s all gone. The existence of the Gandharvas dates back to the same time as the origins of Nepalese culture. Should they vanish, Nepal will be losing a big part of its culture and suffering a big dent in the national identity.

Tuesday, March 2, 2010

treeking in Nepal

TREKKING IN NEPAL
Nepal offers excellent trekking options to visitors from the easy walking excursions to the strenuous climb of the snowy peaks. The most rewarding way to experience Nepal's natural embellishment and cultural assortment is to walk through the length, breadth and the altitudes of the country. Trekking in Nepal is a big part of the ultimate Himalayan adventure and a majority of tourists have trekking as a part of their itinerary.

1) EVEREST REGION
Located in the eastern half of Nepal, the Everest region offers a wide range of trekking experiences. From the well-developed trail to Everest base camp to treks in remote semi-wilderness areas, there is a choice to suit all-corners. The most frequented part of the region is located in Solukhumbu district, the home of the legendary Sherpas. The northern part of the district (Khumbu) is encompassed in the Everest National Park, which was established to protect the fragile environment of the alpine region. To the east of the Everest National Park is the Makalu-Barun National Park, a remote and wild stretch of mountain peaks and deep densely forested valleys. To the west is the Rolwaling valley, a well protected microcosm of cultures and ecology. The southern part of the district, Solu is much less frequented by tourist and be a very rewarding destination in its own right Beside Mount Everest there are other 8,000 meter peaks in the region. Lhotse, Cho Oyu and Makalu and in addition numerous other peaks lesser altitude but no less stunning. Add to this glacial lakes rhododendron forest, native flora and fauna, traditional villages and ancient Buddhist monasteries, all go to make this region a spectacular destination.

ANNAPURNA REGION
Beside the Everest region, the area around the Annapurna massif is perhaps the best known trekking destination in Nepal. Based on sheer numbers of trekking visitors it is certainly the most popular. As the title suggests, the centre piece of this part of Nepal is the range of mountains that includes Annapurna I, the first of the 8000 meter peaks to be climbed. Also included in this general area is another 8000 meter giant, Dhaulagiri, which is located west of Annapurna I. Between these two mountains runs the valley of the Kali-Gandaki River, the deepest gorge on earth. Combine this with lush, fertile farming land, stands of undistributed natural forest and a mixture of different ethnic inhabitants and you have a diverse range of experiences that makes this area one of the most satisfying trekking destinations in Nepal.

The fact that the main Himalayan range runs south of the border with Tibet means that that the northern parts of the area are in the rain shadow and are considerably drier than the southern slopes of the mountains. This leads to unusually diverse landscapes.
SHORT TREK
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KATHMANDU SUNDARIJAL TREK (7 Days)


Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu.
Day 02: Free day in Kathmandu.
Day 03: Kathmandu - Sundarijal - Chisapani (2150M) 5HRS
Drive form Kathmandu to Sundarijal. Trail climbs up through mixed forset and pass the Mulkharka village to Chisapani Danda. In a clear day there are good views of mountain from east to west. there are good view of mountain and Kathmandu Valley.
Day 04: Chisapani – Nagarkot (2163M)5 to 6HRS
An interesting trail takes us to the hill retreat of Nagarkot, perched on a ridge 32 km east of Kathmandu. It commands sweeping views of the Himalayas. Five of the world's ten highest peaks, Everest, Lhotse, Choyu, Makalu and Manaslu are visible from here. Nagarkot is also a popular spot to watch sunrise and sunset.
Day 05: Nagarkot – Dhulikhel 6HRS
The trail climbs up to the tower of Nagarkot. From the tower there are excellent views of mountain including view of Mt Everest and Kahmandu valley. Trail descends through rhododendron forest and villages to Dhulikhel. In a clear day there are excellent view of eastern Himalaya.
Day 06: Dhulikhel - Kathmandu, by bus

Day 07: Final Departure.
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KATHMANDU NAGARKOT (8 Days)
Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu.
Day 02: Full day of sightseeing in Kathmandu.

Day 03: Kathmandu ( Drive)-Sankhu-Nagarkot(Trek)
Half an hour drive to the trek starting point Sankhu- An old Newari settlement lying 12 km east of Kathmandu. we proceed for 4 hours of most easy and pleasant trek. The trail follows the ridgeline eastwards with pleasant walk through the scattered villages. Our first camp at Nagarkot- east of Kathmandu, situated at an altitude of 2175 m above sea level. The panorama of th e major peaks of most of th eastern Nepal Himalayas including mount Everest can be seen from here. Best at sunset and sunrise.
Day 04: Nagarkot -Dhulikhel
The trail follows towards south-east crossing over two ridges lying east-west. Bit of ups and downs but easy and pleasant . Today we walk for about 5 hours reaching another Newari town known as Dhulikhel lying 30 km east of Kathmandu. Another spot for viewing sunset.
Day 05: Dhulikhel-Namobuddha
It's a hike to places within the rim of the Kathmandu valley; pleasant and easy walks to the surrounding villages offer captivating glimpses of rural life.
Day 06: Namobuddha-Gundu
It's a hike to places within the rim of the Kathmandu valley; pleasant and easy walks to the surrounding villages offer captivating glimpses of rural life. O/N at camp.
Day 07: Suryabinayak-Kathmandu
A short hike to Suryabinayak soft walk till lunch and drive back to Kathmandu approx.
Day 08: Kathmandu
Free day on your own to go for last minute shopping or to do something of your interest. Evening dinner followed by Nepali cultural program.

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KATHMANDU KAKANI (5 Days)

Day 01: Kathmandu- Kakani (Drive) - Ale Danda
Day 02: Ale Danda - Chisa Pani
Day 03: Chisa Pani - Nagarkot
Day 04: Nagarkot - Dhulikhel
Day 05: Dhulikhel - Kathmandu (by drive)

tour in Nepal

TOUR IN NEPAL

Duration - 04 Days & 05 Nights
Destinations Covered - Kathmandu - Nagarkot - Dhulikhel - Kathamndu


Day 01: Arrive Kathmandu
On arrival at airport, traditional and transfer to the hotel. Rest of the day of leisure. Overnight at hotel.

Day 02 - Kathmandu
DhulikhelMorning after breakfast, leave hotel to visit Kathmandu Darbar Square, the house of living Goddess Kumari, the ferocious Kal Bhairab, The Red Monkey God and hundreds of erotic carvings and Swayambhunath is the worlds most glorious Buddhist Chaityas. It is said to be 2000 years old. The monument is about 2 km. West of downtown on the hillock. Rest of the day at leisure. Overnight at hotel.

Day 03 - Kathmandu - Nagarkot - Kathmandu (80 km.)
Morning after breakfast leave hotel for same day excursion to Nagarkot, is a fascinating mountain village (7,135ft), for spectecular mountain range which includes, Mt. Everest Manaslu, Makalu and many others. Later return to Kathmandu, enroute visiting Bhaktapur for famous for traditional Architecture and Craftsmanship. Rest of the at leisure. Overnight at hotel.

Day 04 - Kathmandu - Dhulikhel (60 km.)
DhulikhelThis morning after breakfast leave hotel for Dhulikhel, a breathtaking view of the Himalayan panorama, simple village life in Nepal's countryside, and a romantic pe ac ef ul r treat

Day 05 - Dhulikhel - Kathamndu
After breakfast drive back to Kathmandu and transfer to International airport to catch onwards flight.

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Duration - 07 Days & 08 Nights
Destinations Covered - Kathmandu - Lumbini - Chitwan - Pokhara - Kathamndu

Day 01 - Arrive Kathamndu
On arrival at airport, traditional welcome and transfer to the hotel. Rest of the day at leisure. Overnight at hotel.

Day 02 - Kathmandu
Morning after breakfast , leave hotel to visit Kathmandu Darbar Square, the house of living Goddess Kumari, the ferocious Kal Bhairab, The Red Monkey God and hundreds of erotic carvings and Swayambhunath is the worlds most glorious Buddhist Chaityas. It is said to be 2000 years old. The monument is about 2 km. West of downtown on the hillock. Rest of the day at leisure. Overnight at hotel.

Day 03 - Kathamndu - Lumbini (by Flight)
Morning after breakfast, intime transfer to airport to board flight for Lumbini, The Birth Place of Lord Buddha. On arrival met at airport and transfer to hotel. Afternoon visit Maya Devi Temple dedicated to the mother of Lord Buddha, Sidhartha pond where Gautam Buddha was bathed after his birth. Rest of the day at leisure. Overnight at hotel.

Day 04 - Lumbini - Chitwan (192 km.)
Morning after breakfast leave by surface for Chitwan, on arrival check into the Jungle Lodge. After lunch leave for Jungle Safari in to the Royal Chitwan National Park to view game. (One horned Rhino, Bengal Tiger, Gharial, Striped Hyena and the Gangetic Dolphin etc.) Evening at leisure. Overnight at Lodge.

Day 05 - Chitwan
Early morning and late afternoon Jungle Safari in to the Royal Chitwan National Park, rest of the day at leisure. Overnight at Lodge.

Day 06 - Chitwan - Pokhara
Morning after breakfast leave for Pokhara, is a legendary lake valley of Nepal lying quite relaxed on the lap of the most magnificent range of Annapurna range of Mountains. On arrival check into the hotel. Afternoon boat ride on Lake Phewa and sightseeing on Pokhara town. Rest of the day at leisure. Overnight at hotel.

Day 07 - Pokhara - Kathamndu
Morning after breakfast leave for Kathamndu, on arrival check into the hotel. Rest of the day at leisure (optional half day excursion to Nagarkot) Nagarkot, is a fascinating Mountain Village (7,135 ft.) for most spectecular mountain range includes Mt. Everest, Manaslu, Makalu and many others. Later return to Kathamndu. Evening at leisure. Overnight at hotel.

Day 08 - Leave Kathamndu

Intime transfer to board flight for onward destination.

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Duration - 05 Days & 06 Nights
Destinations Covered - Kathmandu - Patan - Bhakatpur - Dhulikhel - Daksinkali - Kirtipur - Kathamndu

Day 01: Arrive Kathmandu
On arrival at airport, traditional and transfer to the hotel. Rest of the day of leisure. Overnight at hotel.

Day 02: Kathmandu - Patan
Morning visit Darbar Square in Patan City, visting Krishna Temple, Golden Window, Rotal Bath, Mahabouddha and Golden Temple. Afternoon visit Darbar Square in Kathmandu, visting House of living Goddess Kumari, the ferocious Kal Bhairab, The Red Monkey God and hundred of erotic carvings, rest of the day at leisure.

Day 03: In Kathmandu
Morning visit Swyambhunath and Pasupatinath Ji Temple, afternoon visit Boudhanath, the largest stupas in South Asia, this is best place to observe the Tibetan Life Style. To visit Kopan monastery, rest of the day at leisure. Overnight at hotel.

Bhaktapur Day 04: Kathmandu - Bhakatpur - Dhulikhel - Kathmandu
Morning visit Bhakatpur (The city of Devotees) Though a massive earthquake of 1934 destroyed many Temples, Bahals (monastery Courtyards), later visit Changunaryan, Narayan or Vishnu is the preserver of creation to Hindus, his temple near Changu Village is often described as the most ancient temple in the Kathmandu Valley. This temple built around the 3rd Century is decorated by some of the best samples of stone, wood and metal craft in the valley.

Day 05: Kathmandu - Daksinkali - Kirtipur
Morning visit Dakshinkali dedicated to Ferocious Mother Goddess, who much erergy and power. The temple is tentric in nature and is a favourite worship place of the Hindus. Later visit Kirtipur very old village situated in a small hill, this little village boasts many ancient monuments including the samed temple of tiger faced Bhairva. Afternoon visit Sankhu, is a sleepy town beneath the Gun Bihar religious complex, within the complex is the temple of Bajra Yogini built in the 17th Century. The area has been an important religious site since the 45th century and has excellent woods and bird-life as well as charming monkeys and pigeons in the temple area. Rest of the day at leisure. Overnight at hotel.


Day 06: Leave Kathmandu
Intime transfer to board flight for onward destination.

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Duration - 08 Days
Destinations Covered - Kathmandu - Chitwan - Lumbini- Tansen-Pokhara - Kathmandu


Day 01: Kathmandu Arrival pick up & transfer to Hotel.
Day 02: Kathmandu -Chitwan
Day 03: Royal Chitwan National Park
Day 04: Chitwan -Lumbini
Day 05: Lumbini - Tansen - Pokhara
Day 06: Pokhara - Nagarkot
Day 07: Nagarkot - Kathmandu
Day 08: Departure After breakfast transfer to Kathmandu International Airport & depart.

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Gorkha

Gorkha, situated at 140km west of Kathmandu at an altitude of 1,135 meter, is the ancestral hometown of the Nepal's ruling royal family. Gorkha is only 18 km up a paved road of the Pokhara-Kathmandu Highway. A brief visit on the way to or from Pokhara would provide more insights into Nepal than one is likely to get at lakeside in Pokhara.
Gorkha's small town is perhaps the most important historical town of Nepal. From its hilltop fortess, King Prithvi Narayan Shah, the ninth generation paternal ancestor of the present King, launched his lifelong attempt to unify the independent states of Nepal, a wildly ambitious project which succeeded due to his brilliance, and the effectiveness of his locally recruited troops. The British term "Gurkha" evolved from the name Gorkha, referring to the famed fighting soldiers of the region.
Gorkha's centerpiece is the magnificent Gorkha Durbar with a fort, a palace and a temple with excellent views of the surrounding valleys, and the Mansalu range.
Of Interest
Gorkha Bazaar is primarily a cobbled street market place where by people from neighboring hill dwellings come to trade. There are a few temples near about, but not much. Yet, it is worth a visit as it provides a very good vista of the quiet charm that soaks a typical hill village of Nepal.
Gorkha Durbar is the main attraction of Gorkha, an hour steep walk up a hill from the bazaar area. It used to be the dwelling of King Prithvi Narayan and his ancestors. The Durbar itself is a humble, yet quite impressive, complex of a temple, fort, and a palace built in the Newar style of Kathmandu. The view of the Himalayan range and the deep valleys from up there is quite breathtaking.
Gorakhnath Cave, ten meters below the palace's southern side, is the sacred cave temple of Gorkhanath. The cave is is carved out of the solid rock and is among the most important religious sites for mainstream Brahmins and Chhetris of Nepal.
Gorkha is also an alternate starting point for a few trekking routes in the region. Gorkha-Trisuli is an easy three day walk along unspoiled Nepali country side. One can also walk a long day's walk to Besishahar, which is the usual starting point for Annapurna and
rice field
Manang area treks. One can also walk through Besishahar area to Pokhara in a four days.

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Getting there
Gorkha is five and half hours from Kathmandu, four and half from Pokhara, and two hours from Chitwan. If travelling by bus, take the bus to Pokhara, get off at Abu Khaireni on the way to Pokhara from Chitwan or Kathmandu. From Abu Khaireni, take a bus to Gorkha, the ride is 21km. If you are travelling to Pokhara from Kathmandu or Chitwan, or vice-versa, you can make Gorkha a daytime stop-over. Bus fare would cost you between US$1-US$3 from Kathmandu, depending on whether you take the local bus or a more comfortable "tourist bus".

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Accommodation
Basically, two choices. Gorkha Hill Resort is a rather expensive upscale hotel (about US$30) with a great view of the Himalayas. The fact that it is located 4km from the town makes it a little inconvenient if you don't have your own transportation. For about US$8, there is also a very basic lodge closer to the town.

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Dining
Not much. There are a number of local eateries serving dal-bhat (the staple Nepali food of rice with vegetables and lentil soup). Gorkha Hill Resort serves decent food (primarily to their guests) for a steep US$8-US$10 price range. If you are there for a day trip, bringing your own sandwich etc. from Kathmandu or Pokhara is perhaps better.

don't miss gorkha in nepal

 

Gorkha

About Gorkha

A 25 kilometer road off the main highway connecting Pokhara and Kathmandu brings you to an ancient Gorkha - the untouched and captivating town of Nepal! Some 300 years ago, Nepal was divided into 50 tiny states, and Gorkha was one of them. King Prithivi Narayan Shah, the founder of `Shah Dynasty' which runs Nepal today, unified Nepal into one kingdom. His Gorkha palace resides on top of a hill at an altitude of 3281 feet (about 1000 meter) The King would watch-over his people as far as his eyes could see from the tallest palace in the very center of Nepal! Gorkha is also the home of Gurkhas - the legendary brave warriors who fought with knives against guns.

Places to Visit and Things to do in Gorkha

Gorkha Palace

Visit the Gorkha palace here to begin your sightseeing of the region.Climb the palace steps from the bottom of the hill, all the way to the top, climbing about one thousand seven hundred steps (1700), in about two hours. That's some hiking to do! If you get tired sit down on a step or think how much easier the trip down will be! You will be glad you got to the top. On a clear sky day, you can view Himalayan range including spectacular view of Manaslu and Himalchuli Mountains, and panoramic views of the valleys.